The Not So Touristy Guide to Malacca
Almost
everyone knows and has visited Malacca more than once. A’ Famosa Fort, been there. St. Paul’s church, done that. Capitol satay celup, got into a queue at 4pm
and finally got in at 6pm. So what else
is there in Malacca?
Many go to
Malacca for the food, just like Penang. Singaporeans
and Malaysians are known to drive all the way to Malacca just to eat. So my mission is to provide good
alternatives to the overcrowded tourist and makan
places so that you won’t have to queue to eat or visit, as well as weeding
out the bad ones (yet highly recommended by various sources) so you can avoid
them. Many of my recommendations are off
the grid, so you better own a GPS! This
is all a very personal opinion though, and it is 100% OK if you don’t agree
with it. Let’s get started!
Day 1
8.50am
Kuih Nyonya Kim
Singaporeans
drive all the way to Malacca’s Baba Charlie for his nyonya kuih. Blogs rave about his kuih, but what of the locals?
Many choose to
visit Kuih Nyonya Kim for their rempah
udang, pulut tekan, kuih ku hitam, kuih koci… It is normal to overbuy as no one can resist
the colorful home-made kuih.
They have their
specials! Mondays and Thursdays are for nasi kunyit, Sundays and Fridays are for
nasi lemak, Wednesdays are for bihun siam, and Saturdays are for mee goreng and bihun. These are all priced
at RM1.20 per item.
Saturdays are
the best time to visit them as there will be more variety.
Address: 9
– 1 Bt, 4 ½ Batu Berendam, 75350 Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E: 102° 15’ 4.9” N: 2° 14’ 59.8”
Opening
hours: 6.30am till everything is sold
Contact:
Jenny 017 – 610 8262
Price: RM0.60
per piece
10.20am
Chee Cheong Fun
If you’re
thinking that the chee cheong fun here is the same as what you get in KL or
anywhere else, nope! The lady boss comes
in early every day, pushing her cart and her children can be occasionally seen
helping her out. Even before she
arrives, you can see the filled up coffee shop right behind where she normally
sets up cart, and also cars (parking illegally by the road!) and people already
patiently waiting.
Waiting for
what?
Well, chee
cheong fun here comes with yam. Sweet
sauce included, chili optional. Unbelievably
cheap, it is sold at RM2.50 a plate! The
yam is amazingly soft and melts in your mouth.
Better order a few plates at one go, one is definitely not enough and
you’ll have to start waiting in line again!
Be warned that the lady boss is very fierce, and you won’t be allowed to
take photos!
Address: Lorong Banda
Kaba, off Lorong Bukit Cina, 75100 Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E:
102° 14'56" N: 2° 11'56"
Opening
hours: 8.00am
– 11.00am
Price:
RM2.50 a plate
11.00am
Malacca Chili
Just one row
behind the yam chee cheong fun is the Bukit Cina market. You have got to try, as my father calls it,
Chili Kentut (farting chili, God knows why he calls it that). This chili can only be found in Malacca! Try it with anything, from fish ball to kueh tiow
soup to even cha kueh tiow, it goes great with almost everything. Hawkers around Malacca use it to fry their char
kueh tiow, kueh kak, and almost all the dishes that need chili in it. The best way to enjoy this chili is to add a
dash of vinegar and soy sauce to it.
The chili is
available at most sundry shops located around the market.
Address: Jalan
Temenggong, Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E102°15'14" N2°11'42"
Opening
hours: almost all day long
Price: RM3.00
per bottle
12.00pm
Macau Gallery
The
Macau Gallery was opened on 26 June 2012.
The original house was a Pre-War English bungalow in typical Siam style,
later used as a governmental department of the authority of Malacca and now it
is part of the historical heritage in Malacca.
The
gallery is divided into zones with different themes, namely Macau World
Heritage, Maritime Routes, Macau Events, Origins and Cultures, where Macau's
history, culture, economy and intangible cultural heritage are displayed
through multimedia, images, models, ceramic and handicrafts. The gallery also features an information
counter, library, multi-function room and esplanade.
The
most interesting thing I did there was to try out the Formula 3 simulator,
which is a permanent exhibit to promote on Macau’s Grand Prix. Though I shamelessly crashed the car endless
times and absolutely had no idea on how to control the simulator, it was
nevertheless a very enjoyable experience.
Address: No. 6, Bukit
Peringgit, Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E102°15'18" N2°13'16"
Opening hours: Tuesday till Sunday, 10.00am – 5.00pm;
Closed on Monday
Contact: 06
- 286 9939
Price: Free
of charge
Website: www.macaugallery.com.my
1.00pm
Restoran Aunty Lee
Most of us tend
to eat at Jonker Street since it is the most popular area in Malacca. However, ask any locals and they will steer
as far away as possible from the aforementioned street. Besides being too commercialized, food doesn’t
come cheap there. If you’re one of those
people, trust Aunty Lee to dish out home cooked authentic Nyonya food.
With only around
12 tables it is hard to secure a seat without prior reservation. Do come with an empty stomach, and be
prepared to wait as Aunty Lee personally works her magic in the kitchen.
The difference
with Aunty Lee’s food and those of Jonker Street were so obvious when we
finally got to taste it. She explained
that the quality and authenticity of her nyonya food can maintain as such
because she never allowed the foreign workers to cook the dishes. They were only allowed to do the trivial yet
time consuming tasks such as peeling the onions or washing the prawns and
fish. When it comes to cooking time
though, it is all Aunty Lee.
If you need some
help with the menu, here are some amazing suggestions:
Appetizers - kerabu
timun, bendih ulam.
Main dishes - cincalok omelette, itik tim (salted
vegetable duck soup), pong teh chicken,
buah keluak chicken, cili garam fish, lemak nenas prawns.
Dessert – Aunty
Lee’s Cendol.
Though Restoran
Aunty Lee may not score high in terms of ambiance, but for what it lacks, the
food made the out of city trip VERY worthwhile.
Next time around, we’re definitely bringing the family.
Address: No 385, Jalan Ujong Pasir, Taman Sinn,
75050 Malacca
GPS coordinates: E 102° 16’ 25.8” N 2° 11’ 12.3”
GPS coordinates: E 102° 16’ 25.8” N 2° 11’ 12.3”
Opening
hours: 11.30am – 2.30pm; 6.00pm – 10.00pm. Closed on Tuesdays
Contact: 06 – 283 1009
Price: RM3
– RM48 per dish. Seafood is according to
market price. Still very reasonable
compared to the commercialized ones.
Casa del Rio
After all that
food, Casa Del Rio, the only hotel located directly on the banks of the Melaka
River looked perfect for an afternoon nap.
We dragged our
heavy stomach and lazy eyes to the boutique hotel, and were slightly woken up
by their refreshing wet towel and welcome drink – cool lime sorbet. My travel companions disappeared like
magic after they got their respective room keys, while I opted (though it might
not have been such a good idea after such a heavy meal) to try out the hotel’s
spa.
The lady I spoke
to at Satkara Spa recommended a one hour Traditional Malay Massage for
relaxation. After all that walking and
video shooting in the morning, relaxation was definitely what I needed. Dumbly nodding and following my masseur into
the treatment room, I couldn’t help but sigh in content as the soft music and
relaxing ambience took over my body.
For a person so
used to going for blind massages that involved lots of “Ouch! Ouch!” when the
masseur hit the pressure points, the traditional Malay massage was pure
luxury. My masseur (Sue) was incredibly
gentle, her long strokes, kneading and pressure point techniques putting me to
sleep almost instantly (some call it a waste?).
Most recommendable was Sue’s good manners and sincerity. I always appreciate these two qualities, as
it is somewhat rare to be found in today’s service industry, no matter how many
star they claim to be.
It was now time
to check out the room, and my expectations were high! The room came with a view of the Melaka
River, and what attracted me the most was the large four point bathroom, which
came with a huge bathtub able to accommodate two. Yay!
The spacious 50
sq meters room blended Mediterranean style with hints of Peranakan influences,
architecture that appropriately pays tribute to the many cultures that have
influenced Malacca. Good that the room
came with complimentary Wi-Fi, easy for us Facebook and Instagram addicts to upload our latest
photos. Why can’t we live without Wi-Fi
even on holidays?!
When night came,
our home by the river seemed to turn into a carnival afloat on a river on
lights. It was pretty impressive and for
a long moment, I stood there on my private balcony, soaking in the night scene
and reflected on the day past.
Address: 88, Jalan Kota Laksamana 75200
Malacca
GPS coordinates: E102°23'4" N2°11'20"
GPS coordinates: E102°23'4" N2°11'20"
Contact: 06 – 289 6888
Price: From
RM888++
Website:
www.casadelrio-melaka.com
5.00pm
Goldsmith Street
There’s no other
place that symbolizes 1Malaysia more than Jalan Tukang Emas (Goldsmith Street). Kampung Kling Mosque (1748) and Sri Poyyatha
Vinayaga Moorthi temple (1781) are located side by side at Goldsmith Street,
while Cheng Hoon Teng Temple (1673) is at Temple Street. All within a 500 meter distance!
Though the mosque is
at the center of mainly old Chinese shop lots and temple, Friday prayers can be
done peaceful and harmonically. Tourist can
shoot photos of the mosque but can’t enter the main prayer hall.
Both the Indian and
Chinese temple are the oldest temples in Malaysia. The Indian temple is dedicated to Lord
Vinayagar (also known as Ganesha), an elephant-headed god with the body of a
man and four hands. Do note the Dutch
influence in the temple’s architecture, seen in the details and finishing of
the entrance, walls, columns, vaulted domes and roofs of the temple.
Every aspect of the Chinese
temple tells a story about the Chinese in Malacca, their lives, beliefs and
concerns. There is also a portrait of a
stone monument dated 1685 dedicated to Li Kap, who donated Bukit China to the
temple as a Chinese burial ground.
Wow!
Address:
Jalan Tukang Emas, 75200 Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E
102°14'53" N2°11'49"
Price:
Free of charge
7.30pm
Seafood on
Stools
There
is a very famous back alley off Jalan Bunga Raya that sells siham (cockles), lala (clams), snails, cuttlefish… where people sit on tiny stools
arranged between drains and motorcycles constantly wheeze inches behind
you. Sometimes, a rat will run past you.
So
for those not adventurous enough and for those that place high priority on food
hygiene, take a half hour drive out of the city to Batu Berendam. Here, you can choose to sit either on tiny
stools or normal chairs. Best of both
worlds.
First
came the home made soya cincau (soy
milk with grass jelly). So nice!
The
signature dishes here are the cockles and clams. I didn’t fancy bloody cockles, but went wild
for the cuttlefish with kangkung, oh
and the ladies finger with sambal belacan. The sambal
belacan was nothing short of awesome, and we learnt that the shop owner’s
Peranakan mother was the genius behind it.
One
thing that I couldn’t find in KL or anywhere else was the tau fu, fu chok
(beancurd skin) and some kind of fish ball that was burnt over charcoal
fire. Charcoal has always been known to
bring out the flavor in food, and this was no exception. Combined with the shop’s special sauce, the
dish was certainly an appetizer.
The place fills
up after 9.00pm with people coming in for supper, so drop by earlier if you
don’t like queuing up.
Just for the
record, we did not experience any food poisoning or stomach upset after eating
plates after plates of shellfish and bloody cockles.
Address: Kedai Makanan
& Minuman Hock Chin, 38A, Jalan Jasa Merdeka 2, Taman
Dato
Tamby Chik Karim, Batu Berendam, 75350
Malacca.
GPS
coordinates: E: 102° 14’ 31.5” N: 2° 15’ 48.8”
Opening
hours: 6.00pm – 12.00am; Closed on Sundays
Contact:
Jimmy Goh 012 – 205 7795
Day 2
8.00am
Fish ball
Breakfast in
Malacca is always a delightful change from what we have on normal days. Today we dropped by Tengkera for fish ball. What’s special about this stall is that they
make fish balls, fish roes, fish skin and fish crackers from mackerel. This is coupled with yam balls, tao kua (baked
bean curd), fried prawn crackers and cucumber – served with chili sauce, sweet
soy sauce and sesame.
The stall is
very easy to find, it is next to a stall selling equally good duck
noodles. And if you go late, the lady
boss will already be sitting down counting her daily gains and drinking coffee. Do call before you go to make sure the stall
is open, because if the boss wasn’t able to buy mackerel, she will not open
stall.
Address: Kedai
Makanan & Minuman Soon Yen, No. 135 –A, Jalan Gajah Berang, Tengkera
Road, 75200 Malacca.
GPS
coordinates: E: 102° 13’ 51.2” N: 2° 12’ 14.6”
Opening
hours: 7.00am till everything finishes (usually about 9.30am)
Closed on
Mondays & Tuesdays
Contact:
Yeo Ah Lak 012 – 623 9698 / 017 – 686 1000
10.30am
Chitty Village
The Chettis have
been around since the reign of Parameswara.
Back then, most of them belong to the group of traders who were living
in Kampung Kling and Kampung Belanda.
They originated from the Coromandal Coast, Kalingapatnam, South India
and Tamil Nadu.
In the earlier
days, there were Chettis holding high posts in the government administration
such as that of the Prime Minister.
However, things began to change during the Dutch colonization. The Chettis were imposed strict supervision in
their trading which eventually caused them to move to more remote areas, such
as Gajah Berang, Bachang and Tengkera.
As a result of
the incident, many Chettis decided to switch their profession from trading to
agriculture. The present Chetti
settlement in Gajah Berang is under the administration of a Trustee by the name
of Kovil Sri Poyatha Venayagar Moorthi.
Address: Jalan
Gajah Berang, 75250 Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E: 102° 14’ 22.9” N: 2° 12’ 15.6”
12.30pm
Hainanese Chicken Rice / Chicken Rice Balls
Instead of
holding an umbrella and sucking on an ice cream stick while queuing under the
searing hot sun to wait for your turn to enter the numerous “famous chicken
rice ball” joints, why not try Nam Wah Chicken Rice Shop? You won’t regret it, plus the price is
definitely more reasonable here.
The chicken rice
here is really good, the rice fluffy and fragrant from being boiled together
with chicken stock, chicken oil and salt!
Locals normally go for the rice, but if you’re curious about chicken
rice balls, do order a few balls.
Delicious extras
on the side include tau fu and egg boiled in special herbs; as well as taugeh
topped with salty fish bits.
If you come
early, a must try is their Hainanese bread which is toasted on charcoal then
served with either butter and sugar or kaya! Paired with a hot cup of authentic Hainanese
coffee, this breakfast is very fattening but oh so satisfying….
Address: Nam
Wah Chicken Rice Shop, 153
Jalan Bendahara Malacca, Malacca
GPS
coordinates: E: 102° 25’27.8” N: 2°20’10.2”
Opening
hours: 8.30am – 6.00pm
Contact: 06
– 284 3881
After lunch, you
can choose to either head back to KL or wherever you came from, or continue
exploring Malacca. Below are two very
touristy places but still worth mentioning.
Jonker Walk
No visit to
Malacca is complete without a visit to this heritage street. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings,
the street is closed for motor vehicles from 6.00pm to midnight and street
vendors will sell gift items and souvenirs to visitors.
Walking on Jonker Street, one can see rows of old buildings
on both sides having elaborate and ornamented facades of Dutch architecture,
with traces of Chinese and English influences in their motifs. Intricate carvings on the pillars and walls
adorn these Chinese buildings reflecting the rich heritage of the Peranakan or
Straits Chinese community.
There are many shops selling collectable items or 'antiques'
as old as few hundred years. The
artifacts are from the Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial periods, also
invaluable antique furniture from China, centuries-old Javanese and Sumatran
wood carvings, intricately carved Chinese rosewood furniture inlaid with
mother-of-pearl, Indian brassware and tapestry items, porcelain items dating
back to the Sung, the Ming and the Ching Dynasties, Dutch hanging kerosene
lamps and other curios. Visitors with
eagle-eyes can even find items made of banned ivory and statues of Buddha!
Some people feel
that Jonker Street has changed from quaint and "quiet haunt of antique-lovers
to bold and brassy site selling foodstuffs, mobile phone housings, plastic toys
and aromatherapy candles".
Whatever, the changing times does have its impact but what is more
important is that Jonker Street has not lost the charm it had years ago. Old visitors do complain some loss of its
originality but also want to come back to see this live cultural museum again!
Address: Jalan Hang Jebat, Malacca
GPS coordinates: E: 102° 14’86.4” N: 2°11’73.8”
GPS coordinates: E: 102° 14’86.4” N: 2°11’73.8”
Opening
hours: Monday-Thursday
10.00am – 6.00pm; Friday - Sunday many stay open until 11.00pm
The Baba &
Nyonya Heritage Museum
Located along a
street known as Millionare’s Row (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock) in Malacca, the
museum was formerly the family home of the Baba Chan family known as Rumah
Abu. Built during the Dutch occupancy,
the heritage building was later bought over by the Baba Chan family.
The most
interesting feature of this building is its open courtyard, where sunshine
streams into the house on sunny days and raindrops patter during the rainy
season. The interior of the house is
complemented by a number of priceless antique furniture made of finely carved
hardwood, beautiful traditional Baba and Nyonya costumes and a unique bridal
chamber. There is also black and white photo exhibiting the Chinese
tradition of foot-binding which was common among Peranakan girls, whilst the family
kitchen showcases various cooking utensil and kitchen equipment such as the
ancient ice-cream maker and stone grinder for making delicious sambal belacan.
Do note that cameras
and video cameras are prohibited in the museum.
Address: 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock,
75200 Melaka
GPS coordinates: E: 102° 24’66.04” N: 2°19’55.29”
GPS coordinates: E: 102° 24’66.04” N: 2°19’55.29”
Opening hours: daily from 10.00am to 12.30pm and 2.00pm
and 4.30pm
Contact: 06 – 283 1273
Price: Adult RM8.00; Child (5 – 12 years
old) RM4.00
Travel Tip
If driving in
Malacca, do remember to buy parking coupons. Each piece is RM0.60 for per hour
parking. The coupons can easily be
bought at many places which prominently display the “Coupons for sale here”
sign. Parking indiscriminately without
the coupons will find you paying a fine of RM30.00. We got fined, which is why we’re telling you
to please buy the coupons L
Recommended
Hotels in Malacca
·
Luxurious
Retreats
1. Casa del Rio
88, Jalan Kota Laksamana
75200 Malacca
Tel: +60 6 289 6888
Fax: +60 6 289 6999
Email: reservation@casadelrio-melaka.com
88, Jalan Kota Laksamana
75200 Malacca
Tel: +60 6 289 6888
Fax: +60 6 289 6999
Email: reservation@casadelrio-melaka.com
Website: www.casadelrio-melaka.com
2.
Philea Resort & Spa
Lot 2940, Jalan Ayer Keroh
Off Jalan Plaza Tol
75450 Ayer Keroh, Malacca
Tel : +6 06 233 3399
Fax : +6 06 233 2299
Email : resv@phileahotel.com.my
Lot 2940, Jalan Ayer Keroh
Off Jalan Plaza Tol
75450 Ayer Keroh, Malacca
Tel : +6 06 233 3399
Fax : +6 06 233 2299
Email : resv@phileahotel.com.my
Website: www.phileahotel.com
Price from: 884++ MYR
3. The Majestic Malacca
188 Jalan Bunga Raya
75100 Malacca
188 Jalan Bunga Raya
75100 Malacca
Website: www.majesticmalacca.com
Price from: 800++ MYR
·
Standard
Accommodations
1. The Neem @ Banda Hilir
117a, Jalan Parameswara, Banda Hilir, 75000 Malacca
Tel: +606 282 7826 / +6012 213 2836
Website: theneem.com.my
Tel: +606 282 7826 / +6012 213 2836
Website: theneem.com.my
Price from: 200 MYR
2. Jonker Boutique Hotel
82 -86A & B, Jalan Tokong, 75200 Malacca
Tel: +606 282 5151
118 Jalan Tun
Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Malacca
Tel: +606 282
5588
Price from:
140++ MYR
·
Backpackers
1. Travellers
Planet Hostel
1-19, Jalan PM3, Plaza
Mahkota, Malacca
Tel: +606
Price from: 51 MYR
2. Backpacker's
Freak Hostel
1-25 (1st Floor), Jalan PM, Plaza Mahkota, Malacca
Tel: +6
Price from: 39 MYR
Posts
